AccessoryFit Find what fits

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How-to guides: choosing accessories by teeth, TPI, grit and profile

Once an accessory fits the tool, one attribute usually decides whether it suits the job. For round saw blades it is tooth count and grind; for jigsaw, reciprocating and band saw blades it is teeth per inch (TPI); for abrasives it is grit and grain; for drill bits it is point type and size; for router bits it is profile; for grinder wheels it is the type number. These guides explain each attribute, how to read it on the packaging in US and European terms, and which value suits which material.

On this page
  1. Which attribute decides each accessory choice?
  2. How do tooth count and grind decide a saw blade?
  3. What does TPI tell you about a straight or band saw blade?
  4. How do grit and grain work together on abrasives?
  5. How do you read drill bit sizes and choose a bit type?
  6. How do router profiles and wheel type numbers work?
  7. Which common beliefs do these guides correct?
  8. Where do you go after choosing?

Which attribute decides each accessory choice?

Each accessory family has one attribute that does most of the work, and learning to read it is quicker than memorising product names. The table below pairs each family with its deciding attribute and the guide that explains it. The sections after it give the core rule for each and where the full guide goes further.

These guides assume the accessory already fits. If you are not sure it does, start with the guides to what fits which tool, which cover arbors, shanks, chucks, collets, threads and pads. Many of the guides' illustrations, from shank types to grinder wheel shapes, are gathered in the power tool diagram library.

Learn the attribute that controls the choice. Tooth geometry: Shape and spacing change how a blade cuts. Cutting form: Bit geometry determines the kind of hole. Abrasive grading: Particle grading shapes the scratch pattern.
Learn the function first, then compare the products that satisfy it.
The attribute that decides the choice for each accessory family
AccessoryDeciding attributeRead it as
Circular, miter and table saw bladesTooth count, grind, hook angle, kerfFewer teeth rip fast; more teeth crosscut cleanly
Jigsaw bladesTPI, blade material, shankLow TPI for wood, high TPI for thin metal
Sandpaper and discsGrit (CAMI or FEPA P), grainLower number is coarser
Drill bitsPoint type, material, size systemFractional, metric, number or letter
Router bitsProfile, bearing position, shankShape left in the work
Cut-off and grinding wheelsType number, thickness, grainFlat Type 1/41 cuts; Type 27 grinds

How do tooth count and grind decide a saw blade?

Fewer, square-topped teeth rip along the grain fast; more, bevelled teeth cut across it cleanly. On a 10 in blade, rip blades have as few as 24 teeth, general-purpose and combination blades 40 to 50 teeth, and crosscut blades 60 to 80 teeth.

The grind names the tooth shape. ATB teeth are bevelled alternately left and right to slice fibres, FTG teeth are square across the top for ripping, and TCG teeth alternate a chamfered tooth with a flat raker for laminate, plastics and non-ferrous metal. Hook angle sets how hard the tooth bites: positive hooks of 10 to 22 degrees feed fast, while negative hooks of -2 to -6 degrees reduce climbing on sliding miter saws. Makers disagree on the hook for the same task, so treat the ranges as typical rather than fixed.

The guide on how to choose a circular saw blade covers teeth, grind, hook and kerf for each kind of cut, from ripping to sheet goods and non-ferrous metal.

Three tooth-top shapes worth recognising. ATB: Alternating bevels are used to slice fibres. FTG: A square top is associated with ripping. TCG: A chamfered tooth works with a flat companion.
A tooth-count label does not describe the whole tooth geometry.

What does TPI tell you about a straight or band saw blade?

Teeth per inch (TPI) sets how fine the cut is and how thick a material the blade suits: low TPI cuts thick wood fast and rough, high TPI cuts thin metal slowly and smoothly. Jigsaw blades for wood are typically 6–10 TPI, and metal blades 14–36 TPI, finer for thinner sheet. Reciprocating blades follow the same logic, from about 5–7 TPI for nail-embedded wood to 18–24 TPI for thin sheet.

The working rule is to keep several teeth in the material at once. Lenox advises 2–3 teeth in the material at all times for jigsaw blades, and band saw makers set a minimum of 3 teeth in the workpiece. Too few teeth and the blade snags and judders; too many and the gullets clog. Higher TPI is not always better, which is the misconception the guide that explains teeth per inch sets out to correct, along with why blades bend.

How do grit and grain work together on abrasives?

Grit sets the scratch size and grain sets what the abrasive cuts well; you choose both. Grit numbers come on two scales, the US CAMI scale with plain numbers and the European FEPA scale with a P prefix, and they match closely up to about 220 grit before diverging. Work up through the grits without skipping more than one, and stop around 180–220 grit before staining wood.

The grain is the mineral. Aluminium oxide is the general-purpose grain for wood and most metals, silicon carbide suits finishing, paint and non-metals, and zirconia and ceramic suit heavy removal on steel but need pressure to self-sharpen. The guide to aluminium oxide, zirconia and ceramic abrasives gives grit progressions by project and pairs each grain with its jobs.

How do you read drill bit sizes and choose a bit type?

Read the size system first, then pick the point for the material. Drill sizes come in fractional inches in 1/64 in steps, metric millimetres, number sizes and letter sizes, and number sizes run backwards, with a higher number being a smaller drill. Number and letter drills exist to fill the gaps between fractional sizes, which is why they appear on tap drill charts. The guide on number and letter drill sizes explains each series with examples.

For the bit itself, twist bits with a point angle of 118 degrees are the general-purpose choice; brad-point bits keep their line in wood; masonry bits carry a carbide tip; and step bits drill many sizes in sheet. The overview of the main kinds of drill bits covers each one, and the comparison of Forstner, spade and auger bits settles which wood-boring bit to use for a large hole.

How do router profiles and wheel type numbers work?

A router profile is the shape the bit leaves, and a wheel type number is the shape of the wheel itself, which in turn decides its job and its guard. Router bits are named for their profile, such as straight, round-over, cove, chamfer or ogee, and most edge bits carry a bearing that rides the edge; flush trim bits have the bearing at the tip and pattern bits on the shank side. The guide to router bit profiles matches each one to the edge or joint it makes.

Cut-off wheels are flat Type 1/41 or depressed-centre Type 27/42; both cut with their rim only and must not be used for side grinding. Thin metal-cutting wheels are commonly 0.045 in thick in the US and 1.0 mm in Europe. The guide to cut-off wheel types explains the numbers, thicknesses and the guard each needs.

Which common beliefs do these guides correct?

Several rules of thumb that circulate in shops and forums do not survive a look at the makers' own guidance. Each guide takes these on with sources:

  • Burning always means a dull blade. Baked-on pitch often causes burning while the teeth are still sharp, so clean the blade first.
  • Higher TPI is always better. More teeth cut smoother but slower, and the right TPI follows the material's thickness.
  • Two fine sheets with the same grit number are the same grade. Above about 220 grit, CAMI and FEPA grades with the same number differ, so check for the P prefix.
  • Pressing harder makes a random orbital sander work faster. Extra pressure slows the pad and leaves swirls.
  • A bigger number drill is a bigger drill. The number series runs the other way.
  • Any spiral router bit leaves a clean top edge. Up-cut spirals leave more tear-out on the near face.

Where do you go after choosing?

To a buyer guide if you want current products that meet the spec, or to a troubleshooting guide if the accessory you have is not cutting as it should. The buyer guides compare products against each job's requirements on published specs, and the troubleshooting guides work through burning, wandering, swirls, chipping, breakage and vibration by cause.

All how-to guides

Questions readers ask

What is the difference between a rip blade and a crosscut blade?

Tooth count and grind. Rip blades have few flat-topped teeth for fast cuts along the grain; crosscut blades have many bevelled teeth for clean cuts across it. On a 10 in blade that is about 24 teeth against 60 to 80 teeth.

What TPI should I use for wood?

For general wood cutting with a jigsaw, typically 6–10 TPI; finer blades give a smoother finish but cut more slowly.

Which grit should I finish with before staining?

About 180–220 grit. Sanding much finer closes the wood's pores and stops stain soaking in evenly.

What does Type 27 mean on a grinding wheel?

It is the depressed-centre wheel shape used for grinding, fitted under the grinder's open guard. Flat Type 1/41 wheels are for cutting and need the closed cutting guard.

Where to go next

References 207 documents, 47 publishers
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